Main course · August to January

roast pumpkin with rye crumbs

Thick wedges with room to breathe on a very hot tray, and crumbs torn from yesterday's rye bread. No purée, no cream — the contrast comes out of the pan.

Serves2 people
Prep15 min
In the oven30 min
Oven220 °C
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Roasted pumpkin wedges with dark caramelised edges on an old baking tray, rye crumbs and sage leaves between them
When pumpkin is around Hokkaido
Jan
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fresh from the field from storage

Pumpkin nearly always ends up in the blender, and there is a fair reason for that: out of the oven it often comes back pale, soft and watery. Pull one tray of washed-out wedges and you go back to soup next time. The fault is not the pumpkin though, it is how full the tray was — packed close together, the steam coming off the pieces has nowhere to go, and they cook in their own moisture.

This recipe turns both around: high heat, a tray preheated with the oven, and at least a finger's width between the wedges. Then a second texture that costs nothing — day-old rye bread torn into coarse crumbs and fried dark brown in oil with garlic and sage. The bread brings the edge that pumpkin does not have on its own.

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Servings 2

For the pumpkin

  • 1Hokkaido pumpkin, about 1.2 kg
  • 3 tbspolive oil
  • 1 tspsalt
  • ½ tspblack pepper, freshly ground

For the rye crumbs

  • 80 grye bread, stale
  • 2 tbspolive oil
  • 2garlic cloves
  • 10 leavessage
  • ½ tspsalt

To finish

  • 2 tbspcider vinegar

Eight ingredients — oil and salt appear twice because they are used in two places. Serves 2 as a main with bread, or 4 as a side. Keep the crumbs in a separate jar, otherwise they go soft overnight.

method

  1. Heat the oven to 220 °C conventional (200 °C fan). Slide an empty lined tray in at the same time and let it heat through.

    The hot tray is half the trick. The cut faces start browning straight away instead of shedding water first.

  2. Halve the pumpkin and scrape out the seeds with a spoon. Cut each half into wedges 2 cm thick. The skin stays on.

    Hokkaido skin goes soft and holds the wedge together. On butternut or crown prince it has to come off.

  3. Toss the wedges with the olive oil, salt and pepper listed for the pumpkin until every surface is glossy. Lay them on the hot tray, one cut face down, with at least a finger's width between them.

  4. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, turning once after about 18 minutes. They are done when the edges are dark brown and the thin tips curl slightly.

    Depending on variety and thickness it can take five minutes longer. Go by the look, not the clock.

  5. Meanwhile tear the rye bread into coarse crumbs — pea-sized and deliberately uneven. Hands do this better than a blender, which grinds everything to the same fineness.

  6. Heat the olive oil for the crumbs in a pan over medium heat and fry them for 4 to 6 minutes, until they are dark brown and sound dry as you stir. Add the sliced garlic and the sage for the last minute and season with the remaining salt.

  7. Lay the pumpkin out on a platter, sprinkle the cider vinegar over it and scatter the hot crumbs on top. Straight to the table.

    The vinegar goes on the pumpkin, not the crumbs — otherwise they soften at the exact moment they are ready.

A note from us

The most common mistake is not the temperature, it is how much goes on the tray. Pumpkin is mostly water. With the wedges close together the steam they give off sits between them and cannot escape — so they cook in their own moisture and go soft without ever browning. Two half-filled trays beat one full tray, even though it looks like twice the work.

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Toasted rye crumbs in a steel pan with garlic cloves and fresh sage leaves
A Hokkaido pumpkin cut in half on a wooden board, the seeds scooped out beside it, a large knife at the edge

notes

Other squash
Butternut and crown prince work, but they have to be peeled. Roasting time stays about the same; the flesh comes out sweeter and softer.
No stale bread
Roughly chopped sunflower seeds, 3 minutes in a dry pan. Less texture than crumbs, same job. Fresh bread works too — dry it on a tray for 10 minutes at 150 °C first, otherwise it soaks up the oil instead of toasting.
No sage
Rosemary works, but use half the amount and chop it finely — it is considerably stronger and takes over quickly.
The next day
Pumpkin cold in a salad or with lentils. Keep the crumbs separate and refresh them briefly in a pan; in the fridge they pull moisture and turn leathery.

goes well with

Sliced rye loaf with a dark crust
no-knead rye bread
Two roasted cabbage steaks with charred leaf edges
crisp cabbage steaks with herb yoghurt
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